“The 2009 Branco Quinta de Foz de Arouce is revisited this issue for a checkup. As sometimes happens, this white from Foz de Arouce has some pros and cons. The structure here is wonderful, far justifying a higher score. The fine acidity and tension, together with what feels like some tannic pop, is simply impressive. It has a mouthwatering and juicy feel to it. On the other hand, the nose is funky, smelling of sulfur and smoke. I took that to be a reductive issue, but in any event it is hard to approach on the nose and also something that is hard to overlook, which makes this difficult to evaluate. Retasted the next day, it was still stinky and not in a minor way. So, pick your poison. It's aging brilliantly in a sense, proving itself to be a long distance runner. (I wanted to let it sit and reevaluate it after first seeing it several years ago.) In that sense, it's won big. In other senses, not so much. It is at least fair to stop hedging and expand the drinking window greatly. Call this a compromise score. You'll deal with the aromatics or you won't.”
— Wine Advocate, Oct 2015