“The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd was planted in 1997 with a varied selection of old genetics collected across Lower Austria on varying rootstocks. Bodenstein calls this wine his scientific experiment. This is planted in the upper part of the Achleiten, on rocks with very thin topsoil where Grüner struggles, but this is shaded from mid-afternoon onwards. This takes a while to open up, but there is a faint but very fine scent of citrus, almost with a touch of chervil. Again, the palate is rounder than the nose suggests, super-smooth, but with a lovely edge of zestiness, faint but utterly fresh, elongated, stony and graceful. There's quite a bit of power on the finish - beautifully long (Dry)” — Vinous, Jul 2024