“The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Ried Achleiten Smaragd is one of three wines Bodensteiner makes from this site. This wine is picked on either side of the Achleiten Tor, across twenty terraces each, on a mix of gneiss, Alpine deposits and amphibolite from vines planted in the 1950s. The shy nose gives a touch of citrus, slightly obscured by gently stony smoke. The palate is immediately graceful, slender and almost bony. The fine structure is clothed in translucent tangerine flavors, is juicy and friendly but graceful, and has terrific zestiness. Subtle spice on the nose only comes with more air. The 2023 is fine but also mild. (Dry)” — Vinous, Jul 2024