An incredibly delicate and subtle gruner veltliner in spite of the great concentration. Beautifully ripe Reine Claude and Mirabelle plums, also a wealth of garden herb nuances, then a whole Alpine meadow of flowers cascades over you at the very long and filigreed finish. And that’s dangerous, because then you want more of the fabulous fruit and reach for the glass again. Great aging potential. — James Suckling, Nov 2024

“The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd was planted in 1997 with a varied selection of old genetics collected across Lower Austria on varying rootstocks. Bodenstein calls this wine his scientific experiment. This is planted in the upper part of the Achleiten, on rocks with very thin topsoil where Grüner struggles, but this is shaded from mid-afternoon onwards. This takes a while to open up, but there is a faint but very fine scent of citrus, almost with a touch of chervil. Again, the palate is rounder than the nose suggests, super-smooth, but with a lovely edge of zestiness, faint but utterly fresh, elongated, stony and graceful. There's quite a bit of power on the finish - beautifully long (Dry)” — Vinous, Jul 2024